Co-op Connection Featured Business: Stone Leaf Teahouse
Sunlight streams through the floor-to-ceiling windows at the back of Stone Leaf Teahouse, catching the steam rising from boiling kettles on the counter. The interior is at once moody and inviting; hanging fabrics, woven rugs, and sun-loving plants give the room a warmth that settles around patrons tucked into its nooks. Located in Middlebury’s Marbleworks, Stone Leaf is a favorite among students and professionals alike. At this longtime Co-op Connection partner, Co-op member-owners receive 10% off their purchases every day.
There are a dizzying number of teas to choose from at Stone Leaf, but novice drinkers need not be intimidated. Staff training under owner John Wetzel lasts six months, and employees are expected to know what every tea tastes like. Even after years on the job, there is more to learn—from John, from coworkers, and from the questions that come up during a day’s work. You can start with what you like, ask about something you’ve never tried, and let the conversation help you choose.
Today, we’ve ordered a 2024 raw puer, a tea from China’s Yunnan province that continues to develop as it ages. Ours has been “sleeping” for two years, the staff member preparing it explains.
We’re drinking gongfu-style, using a small pot to brew the same leaves several times. There is care in the preparation, but also permission to be a little messy. Hot water poured over the outside helps warm the pot. Patrons are encouraged to choose a tea pet for their tray, a small figure traditionally “fed” a share of the tea. Over time, the repeated pourings change its color.
The clay pots change with use, too. Unglazed and porous, they absorb something of the tea brewed inside them. Our guide compares them to seasoned cast-iron skillets: each pot is dedicated to a particular type of tea, its interior darkening over years of brewing.
Photographs of farmers and their land hang around the shop. John travels to the places Stone Leaf sources its teas, spending time with growers and developing the relationships that shape the selection.
This also explains why, even with approximately 300 teas available, Stone Leaf may not carry one a customer asks for. There are countries John hasn’t visited yet, and relationships he hasn’t had the opportunity to build. Adding those teas means making the trip and taking the time to get to know their producers.
That familiarity reaches far beyond John. One of the farms we hear about belongs to two retired schoolteachers who tend a few acres of tea, doing much of the work themselves. The employee telling us about them has never visited their farm, though you wouldn’t guess it from the way she talks about their lives and work.
Tea service comes with additional hot water, so the same leaves can be steeped again while you settle into a conversation or a book. For something sweet alongside your tea, choose from an assortment of chocolates made by Daily Chocolate in Vergennes and delivered weekly.
Upstairs, you can slip off your shoes and take a seat at one of the low Japanese-style tables. With each steep, the tea changes a little, and it’s worth tasting the difference for yourself. One pot is as good an excuse as any to settle in and spend an afternoon.
