Our Member Deals Spotlight this week is Klinger’s Bread Company, a Burlington-based bakery known for its traditional European-style artisan loaves. From March 18–24, Co-op member-owners receive 20% off Klinger’s full line of fresh-baked breads.
Founded in 1993 by the Klingebiel family, Klinger’s has been producing hearth-baked breads in Vermont for more than three decades. Their loaves are made using time-honored techniques: slow-developed starters, long fermentation, and careful hand shaping before baking in a French brick oven. The result is bread with real structure and flavor — crusty on the outside, tender and chewy within.
Klinger’s breads are made with simple, high-quality ingredients and the patience that good bread requires. It’s the kind of loaf that turns a simple meal into something memorable — and a reminder that great bread doesn’t need to be complicated to be exceptional.
We invite you to check out this month’s featured Co-op Connection Business — Middlebury Fitness! Flash your Co-op member-owner card and you’ll receive 50% off your enrollment fee! Read on to learn more about what this community wellness center has to offer:
Middlebury Fitness is a community health and wellness center founded in 1997 that puts its members’ needs first. Their facility features a wide variety of the most current strength and cardio equipment by the leading brands in the industry. Is group fitness your thing? They offer a variety of live and remote programs and group fitness classes to meet the diverse and ever-changing needs of their member base, ranging from ages 13 to 93. Click here for their class calendar and descriptions. Other services and amenities include personal training, sport-specific athletic performance training, nutrition consultations with Registered Dietician Amy Rice of Champlain Nutrition Solutions, and more!
The crew at Middlebury Fitness is incredibly proud to be so active in this great community and annually receives recognition and awards for various initiatives. For the past four consecutive years, they have received the United Way of Addison County’s “Partner Award” for an annual event that has raised $60,000 for our local friends and families in need since 2014. Wow!! They were also the 2018 recipients of the prestigious BOB (Best of Business) award in the Health Club category by Vermont Business Magazine.
At Middlebury Fitness they understand that you have options when it comes to your health and fitness needs. They aim to meet and exceed their members’ expectations every day and believe they have some of the most attentive, caring, professional, and knowledgeable instructors, personal trainers, and staff you will find. Their ultimate goal at Midd Fit is to ensure that each of their members achieves their personal fitness goals while experiencing exceptional customer service in a supportive atmosphere of fun and camaraderie.
If you are a current member, they’d like to extend a sincere THANK YOU for being a part of the Midd Fit family! If you are not yet a member, please visit and let Middlebury Fitness guide you through your fitness journey today! And don’t forget to mention that you’re a Co-op member-owner!
Last week, we had the pleasure of welcoming Jessica McColly’s 5th grade class from Mary Hogan Elementary School to the Co-op. The students are currently learning about how consumers and businesses make buying decisions – including discussions about fair trade, supply chains, and the ways everyday purchases can affect workers and farmers. We were glad to open our doors for a hands-on activity that brought those ideas into the real world.
After a brief discussion about what influences buying choices – price, need, familiarity, supply – students paired off, grabbed clipboards, and headed into the store. Their assignment wasn’t to decide what people should buy. Instead, they were asked to investigate why a grocery store might choose to carry certain products in the first place.
Each pair rotated through departments – produce, dairy, bulk, and grocery – answering the same set of questions in each space. They compared local and non-local foods. They examined different versions of the same item – organic and non-organic, store brand and national brand.
They considered what might make a product easier or harder to keep on the shelf if something changes. They also looked at familiar, widely expected foods that shoppers rely on, even if those items aren’t local.
When we gathered back together, the conversation was thoughtful and wide-ranging.
Students noticed that some foods simply don’t grow in Vermont, but might be in season somewhere else. They observed price differences and talked about how offering multiple options helps different families shop in one place. They considered what might happen if a popular item disappeared from the shelves. They wrestled with the idea that staying financially healthy is part of what allows a community-owned store to support local farmers, employ staff, and continue serving the community.
One theme surfaced again and again: tradeoffs. No single product accomplishes every goal. A grocery store – especially a co-op – has to balance supporting local producers, offering accessible choices, remaining resilient when supply chains shift, and meeting the everyday needs of its customers. It’s not about perfect decisions. It’s about how those decisions add up over time. Walking the aisles as investigators rather than shoppers sparked questions we don’t always stop to ask.
We’re grateful to Jessica McColly and the Mary Hogan fifth graders for spending their morning with us and for bringing such curiosity to the conversation. We’re always glad to welcome students into the store as part of their learning, and look forward to meeting next year’s class of 5th graders!
Just in time for Valentine’s day, this month we’re casting our Co-op Spotlight on a local favorite – Lake Champlain Chocolates!All of their mouth-watering chocolates are 20% off for member-owners from February 4-10. Read on to learn more about this local confectionery that has called Vermont home for 40 years.
History:
The story of Lake Champlain Chocolates began in 1983, when founder Jim Lampman dared the pastry chef at Burlington’s Ice House Restaurant to create a better truffle than the ones he had been buying as holiday gifts for his staff. Together, they began making hand-rolled, creamy truffles that quickly stood apart—and the rest, as they say, is history.
Sourcing Matters:
From the very beginning—long before “eating local” was a common refrain—Lake Champlain Chocolates has been committed to sourcing Vermont-grown ingredients whenever possible. They understood early on that using high-quality Vermont honey, maple syrup, and fresh dairy from local farmers and producers would lead to better chocolate, plain and simple.
The goal has always been to bring you their best: chocolate that amazes with exquisite flavor and creates a moment of pure joy. That commitment is why they’ve never added preservatives, extenders, or unnecessary additives, and why they’ve worked diligently to remove GMOs from all of their chocolates while using organic and Fairtrade-certified ingredients whenever possible. With each new product, the goal remains the same—to create something special and offer the best possible experience.
Eric Lampman in the Dominican Republic
A Family Affair:
Lake Champlain Chocolates is a second-generation, family-owned business—much like the Vermont family farms that supply them with butter, cream, maple syrup, and honey. The same is true of the generations of cacao farmers in places like the Dominican Republic and Guatemala, with whom they maintain direct partnerships.
Today, Jim’s son and daughter, Eric and Ellen, are shaping the future of Lake Champlain Chocolates by developing award-winning organic products and leading sustainable sourcing initiatives. Along the way, they continue to follow the Lampman family principles: dare to do better, always do it with passion, and do it your way.
The Lampman Family
Fairtrade:
Making great-tasting chocolate is hard work, and the team at Lake Champlain Chocolates believes that everyone involved in the process deserves to be treated and compensated fairly—and that their work should have a positive impact on both local and global communities.
When you purchase Fairtrade-certified chocolate, more money goes directly back to farmers, helping them lift themselves out of poverty and build better lives for their families. Fairtrade certification also provides additional premiums for community development, prohibits forced and child labor, and supports environmentally sustainable farming practices. You can indulge your sweet tooth knowing that 100% of the chocolate used by Lake Champlain Chocolates is Fairtrade certified.
Why Buy Fairtrade Certified Chocolate?
Farmers and workers are justly compensated and provided safe working conditions, including protections against forced and child labor.
Farmers are empowered to build sustainable businesses that strengthen their communities.
Cocoa farmers and cooperatives receive additional Fairtrade premiums to invest in community development.
Farming communities gain skills to better participate in—and benefit from—the free market.
Farming villages become stronger stewards of the environment by using sustainable practices that protect habitats and increase biodiversity.
B Corp Certification:
Lake Champlain Chocolates joined a growing global community of more than 2,500 certified B Corporations united by a shared goal: redefining what success in business looks like. Rather than focusing solely on profit, certified B Corporations are part of a worldwide movement using business as a force for good. They meet rigorous standards for social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability, and commit to using the power of business to help address social and environmental challenges.
Unlike certifications that focus on individual products, B Corporation certification evaluates the entire business—assessing annual impact across the environment, workers, customers, community, and governance. This purpose-driven model is designed to create benefits for all stakeholders, not just shareholders.
For Lake Champlain Chocolates, these performance standards offer a meaningful third-party measure, assuring customers and suppliers that their business practices meet the highest standards. “Achieving B Corp Certification is the next step toward fulfilling our vision of becoming the gold standard of chocolate companies in the United States—a respected leader other companies aspire to be,” says Eric Lampman, President of Lake Champlain Chocolates. “For more than 35 years, our practices have been guided by one core value: everything must measure up to the chocolate. That includes making a positive impact on our local and global communities by respecting our employees, building long-term partnerships with our suppliers, and practicing environmental responsibility.”
Carrying the weight of the world in your neck and shoulders? Craving a moment to breathe and reconnect? Otter Creek Yoga, this month’s Co-op Connection featured business, is here to help. Co-op member-owners enjoy their first class free—just let them know you’re a member!
For over 20 years, Otter Creek Yoga has been a cornerstone of healing and self-discovery in Addison County. As the area’s first yoga studio, they continue to offer a peaceful space for relaxation and growth. Located in Middlebury’s historic Marbleworks, their bright, serene studio hosts classes throughout the day, evening, and weekends for all levels of experience—no prior yoga experience required.
Their dedicated team of seven certified instructors, led by founder and director Joanna Colwell, teaches a range of yoga styles to fit different needs. If you’re unsure where to start, send them an e-mail or give them a call—they’re happy to help guide you to the right class. Or explore on your own; click here to explore the schedule and class descriptions.
Otter Creek Yoga is also deeply committed to accessibility and inclusion. Through their Yoga Equity Project, individuals who are part of the global majority (BIPOC) can access free yoga classes or even receive compensation for attending. This eight-week Gentle Yoga Series, led by Sasha Finnell, fosters an inclusive and nurturing environment designed for comfort, healing, and community.
To learn more or register for the series, reach out to Joanna directly.
Whether you’re new to yoga or a long-time practitioner, Otter Creek Yoga welcomes you to reconnect with yourself and your community.
Why I serve on the Board: We are all familiar with the refrain “voting with your dollars.” I spend my money at the Co-op because I believe in this idea, and I choose to be a member of the Board of Directors because I similarly believe in the concept of “voting with your time.” Each time I engage in Board work, I am grateful for how this model of ownership and governance is different from conventional grocery stores–our Co-op exists to benefit our community, and recirculate wealth, rather than the traditional model of extracting wealth to benefit a small number of shareholders. This is remarkable.
My favorite co-op item: Bonté Bakery’s olive & rosemary bread
About me: Much of my days revolve around planning and cooking meals for my seven year old and four year old twins! When I’m not cooking and eating, I love knitting, gardening and fly-fishing. I also own and operate my own business selling my handmade pottery.
Barbara Hofer
Why I serve on the board: Co-ops serve as a place to put our values into action, and I care deeply about “food for people, not for profit,” the guiding slogan of early food co-ops – and appreciate that whatever profit we do make goes back into the community and not to a corporate headquarters. I feel fortunate to be able to work with such caring and engaged board members and the General Manager to represent member owners in ensuring that the organization is living up to our guiding principles. My favorite Co-op item: I don’t think of the co-op in regard to specific items as much as I do in regard to the experience of shopping there! I deeply appreciate the way the staff make everyone welcome and how knowledgeable and helpful they are, and I love the spontaneous conversations with people I might not see otherwise, as well as the discovery of new products and the delight of old favorites.
About me: A MNFC member since I moved to Middlebury in 1998, I’m a sometimes retired psychology professor. I research, write, and speak about science denial and what to do about it. I enjoy running, biking, hiking, yoga, traveling, and spending time with my twin grandsons.
Caroline Corrente
Why I serve: MNFC is not just a place to buy healthy & delicious food – it is a vital part of our community and local economy. I am lucky enough to have firsthand experience selling my product through the Co-op. When I started out, the employees showed me guidance and patience, and put faith in my food. This is what the Co-op does: it constantly supports our local farmers, makers, and producers; amplifies the voices of those doing good work; and fosters a sense of community–all while investing money and resources back into our local economy. I feel compelled to serve on the Board of Directors to augment the impact and reach of the Co-op’s community engagement and local economic development.
Favorite coop item: So many to choose from! Yalla hummus, Downhill Bread, Jasper Hill’s Harbison cheese (preferably all at the same time). Followed by their peanut butter covered pretzels.
About me: My life revolves around good food. I own Haymaker Bun Company in Middlebury & Burlington. I spend most of my time thinking about what to put on menus, what produce is in season, what bun flavor combinations sound good, and what’s for dinner. When I am not thinking about food I am probably walking my dog, riding my bike, xc skiing, or spending time with my husband & two sons at our home in Middlebury.
Caryne Eskridge
Why I serve on the Board: I find the Co-op’s community ownership model a powerful and compelling way to meet communal needs and share power. As a pastor and mental health worker, I spend a lot of time working with others toward wholeness and justice. I believe that healthier, stronger communities are essential, and our Co-op is part of that strength and cooperation. I love serving on the Board because I get to work with a fantastic team of people to keep our Co-op strong and I get to learn about our vibrant local food system along the way. A win-win!
My favorite co-op item: My top three favorites right now are: Downhill Bread Fennel Sesame Sourdough, Blue Ledge Farm Camembrie, and the Co-op made Chocolate Pudding
About me: I have (unintentionally) lived in 4 places in a row that start with “New:” Newport RI, New Orleans LA, New Haven CT and now New Haven VT. My favorite things are cooking, eating, hanging out with my dog Sammy, spending time with my partner and with friends, mountain-biking, and playing games and puzzles.
Cody Mears
Why I serve on the board: In my experience Middlebury Natural Foods Co-op has been a place of constant community and connection. It plays a key role in our local food system, supporting hundreds of Vermont’s producers. Whether I’m helping out with a delivery for my wife’s family’s farm or just heading in to pick up some groceries, I always value my time spent at the Co-op. I serve on the Board of Directors to foster a closer connection to the Co-op, our food system and the member community.
My favorite co-op item: Golden Russet Farm produce, polenta sourdough from Downhill Bread, any light roast from Brio Coffeeworks and Aqua ViTea ginger kombucha.
About me: I’m a lifelong Vermonter with a passion for cooking, baking and turning on my snowboard. I work in marketing for an outdoor clothing company and on my wife’s family’s organic vegetable and flower farm.
Erin Buckwalter
Why I serve on the board: I believe that a better food and farming system is not only possible, but is critical to our collective thriving future– and I see the Middlebury Co-op as key to this locally. I am grateful for the Co-op and am honored to be able to participate in the democratic processes of our Co-op to support others in keeping more of our dollars and decisions local!
My favorite co-op item: Wow – I have so many! I almost always leave with an Aqua ViTea Blueberry Social Kombucha and possibly some dolmas too.
About me: I have worked at the Northeast Organic Farming Association of Vermont (NOFA-VT) since 2010 and have a master’s degree in Community Development & Applied Economics. My partner and I live in Starksboro with our two young sons and have a small maple syrup operation.
Ollie Cultrara
Why I serve on the board: The Co-op is a place where we get to practice leading with our values, and exploring what shared, cooperative leadership can look like. MNFC is a leader in many ways in consumer co-op governance, and it’s exciting to know that what we are building on a local level can have an impact across the country. Personally, I’ve benefited from training and mentorship that prepared me to become board Treasurer, and I learn a lot by keeping an eye on the Co-op’s and board’s finances.
My favorite co-op item: Every time I get to visit the Co-op (now that I’m based in Massachusetts), I make sure to stock up on Champlain Orchards cider and unscented local soaps.
About me: I’m happiest cooking and eating with loved ones, giving great hugs, and being outside. I am working as a butcher at a specialty food shop that I sure wish was a co-op! I am grateful for the opportunity to continue serving on the board remotely.
Samantha Langevin
Why I serve on the board: One of my favorite things about Vermont is its genuine and open support for local food. Local farmers, farm workers, and food producers are all members of our community and the MNFC is an important thread in the web that supports them to feed all of us. I serve on the co-op board because I care deeply about local food systems and I know the MNFC does as well. I also serve because I think representation is important, and that our leadership bodies should reflect their communities. The MNFC is more than just a store (I have city friends that call it “the greatest grocery store on earth”) – It is a statement of our values as a community.
My favorite co-op item: Cheese. Even if I’m not buying cheese, I just have to go look. Which usually means I am buying some. Vault No 5 is worth your time.
About me: I am the Director of Partnerships & Community for Liberation Ecosystem, an organization that supports Vermonters of Color in Land, Environment, Agriculture, and Foodways. I live on a small farm in Bristol with my partner, where I am usually found planning a meal, thinking about cake, or reading science fiction.
Looking for a great way to jump start the new year? Check out Vermont Sun! They’re our featured Co-op Connection Business this month and they offer 50% off their enrollment fee to Co-op member-owners!
Vermont Sun has been keeping our community fit since 1985. Whether you’re visiting their facilities in Middlebury or Vergennes, you’ll find their clubs geared up with the essential elements of a great workout. Their fitness equipment vendors are the best in the industry, and their club owners stay current with the latest technology! They offer a wide variety of cardio, strength, and free weight equipment to ensure that you get the best possible workout.
FACILITIES AND PROGRAMMING
Both Vermont Sun locations are open Monday thru Friday 6 am-8 pm, Saturday & Sunday 7:30 am-4 pm. This includes the pool as well! Vermont Sun’s two thousand square foot exercise room features a cushioned hardwood floor and is fully air-conditioned. Their top of the line sound system provides amazing sound quality for all group fitness classes. All group fitness classes are included in most memberships at no extra charge. Find their class schedule on their website.
Their facilities also offer racquetball courts, saunas, and indoor pools for lap swimming, rehab, or recreation.
Need help to ease safely back into a workout routine? Or maybe you’re just looking to set some new fitness and nutrition goals and could use a professional guide? Vermont Sun offers Personal Training services and Nutritional Counseling from a knowledgeable staff of certified, credentialed specialists.
In short, Vermont Sun has everything you need to help make your fitness goals a reality! Stop in and find out for yourself why they are voted the #1 Fitness Center in the region year after year! And don’t forget to tell them you’re a Co-op member-owner!
Article written by MNFC Board Member Barbara Hofer
Have you loved shopping at the Co-op and think you might want to get more involved and contribute in a meaningful way? I hope you’ll consider running for the Board of Directors. When I participated in a national training for new board members a couple years ago, I learned how fortunate we are to have a co-op that is such a strong, thriving, growing presence in our community. We can’t take this for granted.
The board is composed of 11 members who are elected to serve three-year terms. The board is currently composed of member-owners who have been Co-op members for different lengths of time. We range in age from the twenties to the seventies, and have varying work-lives as pastor, student, farmer, non-profit and college administrators, butcher, baker (no candlestick makers, as yet!), business owner, sales rep, professor, sled dog driver, ceramicist/ fiber artist. This diversity of backgrounds and skills makes our board stronger. What we have in common is a passion for the Co-op, our democratic principles, and the collaborative processes that guide our work together. No particular expertise is required.
The board has three primary roles: 1) to represent the 7,000+ member-owners of the Co-op, 2) to oversee and support the General Manager, and 3) to provide strategic and financial oversight for the Co-op. Board members craft and monitor policies that ensure the Co-op is meeting our mission and our ends. We meet monthly, with online conversations and some committee meetings in between. Board members receive a small annual stipend, a 10% discount, and access to professional training.
Each year we are committed to recruiting new board members to bring fresh voices and diverse perspectives to our team. Institutional knowledge from longer serving board members and fresh perspectives from newer board members are equally valuable. Our board strives to be actively anti-racist and inclusive, and we continue to educate ourselves about what that means and how to put it into practice to better serve our members and community.
There are several opportunities to learn more about the board:
Co-op members are always welcome to attend board meetings, and it’s a great way to see the board in action and to discover if this might be a good fit for you. Prior to the next two meetings we’ll also hold an informal “meet and greet” to answer any questions and to talk a bit about what we do. These board meetings are on Wednesday, February 18, and Wednesday, March 18th from 6:00-8:00pm, with the “meet and greet” session starting at 5:30. If you’d like to attend either meeting, please contact Board President, Amanda Warren, in advance: board@middlebury.coop.
We will be holding an Info Session for prospective board members on Zoom, on Thursday, March 12, from 7-8pm. MNFC’s General Manager, Greg Prescott, and I will describe the board’s function, responsibilities, and governing style and answer any questions. RSVP at bhofer@middlebury by Tuesday, March 10, to receive the Zoom link.
We are always happy to connect with you outside of these meetings, too! If you are interested in learning more about what it’s like to serve on the board, don’t hesitate to reach out to me at bhofer@middlebury.edu or speak with any of the other board members. Applications will be due March 27, with more details about the election and the application process provided in the February newsletter.
Barbara is Chair of the Board Development Committee.
Are you craving the warmth and comfort of a nourishing, home-cooked soup but find yourself short on time? That’s where Joe’s Kitchen soups come in! This week, we’re excited to feature Joe’s Kitchen in our Member Deals Spotlight, with all their locally made, from-scratch soups available at 20% off for Member-Owners from January 21st to 27th.
From Grandma’s Kitchen to Culinary Excellence
Joe Buley’s journey to founding Joe’s Kitchen at Screamin’ Ridge Farm began in his grandmother’s home in East Randolph, Vermont. He recalls her kitchen as a warm, bustling hub filled with family, friends, and the enticing aroma of a soup pot simmering on the stove. His grandmother’s cooking philosophy balanced flavor and economy, often using whatever ingredients were on hand to create hearty, delicious soups. The key to her creations? The fresh vegetables and herbs she harvested straight from her garden.
Joe’s mother carried on this tradition, teaching him the art of making great-tasting food with fresh, home-grown ingredients. These early lessons shaped Joe’s passion for cooking and laid the foundation for his future career.
Chef-Owner Joe Buley
A Culinary Journey
Joe’s culinary career took him far and wide. He trained at the prestigious École Supérieure de Cuisine Française in Paris (also known as École Ferrandi), where he was the only U.S. citizen in his class. After graduating, Joe honed his skills in culinary hotspots like Brooklyn, San Francisco, San Diego, and Austin before returning with his family to Vermont in 1999. Back home, he served as a chef-instructor at the New England Culinary Institute for nearly a decade.
During this time, Joe began growing his own food, inspired by memories of his grandmother’s garden. What started as a small operation with a single greenhouse and a walk-behind tractor evolved into Screamin’ Ridge Farm—a thriving business known for its winter spinach and a wide variety of summer crops. The farm’s produce was sold at the Montpelier Farmers Market and through seasonal CSA programs.
Bridging the Gap Between Farm and Table
As Joe connected with customers at farmers markets and through the CSA, he noticed a common challenge: people wanted to eat healthy meals but often lacked the time or inspiration to cook from scratch. This realization sparked the idea for Joe’s Kitchen at Screamin’ Ridge Farm, where he could combine his passion for growing ingredients and cooking them into flavorful, ready-to-eat foods.
Joe’s soups are crafted with integrity and a commitment to using local ingredients. When sourcing items not grown on his own farm, Joe partners with neighboring small farms in the Montpelier area. This approach not only supports Vermont’s working landscape but also ensures that his soups have the authentic, fresh flavors reminiscent of his grandmother’s cooking—all without the need for added sugars or excessive salt.
Joe’s crew hard at work at their production kitchen in Montpelier, VT
A Co-op Favorite
At the Co-op, we’re proud to offer a rotating selection of Joe’s Kitchen soups, showcasing the best of Vermont’s seasonal produce. From hearty stews to creamy bisques, there’s a flavor for everyone. Which one will you try next?
Rooted in the family traditions passed down from his grandmother’s kitchen, and combining locally sourced ingredients with time-honored cooking methods, Joe’s Kitchen soups bring together the quality and essence of home-cooked meals with the convenience that busy lives demand.
Co-op Member-Owners, don’t miss your chance to stock up and save 20% on Joe’s Kitchen soups from January 21st to 27th!
If you’re a lover of Vermont artisan cheese, then you’re likely no stranger to the producer basking in the glow of this week’s Member Deals Spotlight — Jasper Hill Farm. And we think you’ll be thrilled to hear that from December 24th – 30th, Co-op member-owners can enjoy a 20% discount on their full lineup of award-winning local cheeses – just in time to put together a crowd-pleasing holiday cheese board! Read on to learn more about the brothers behind this epic operation, their innovative approach to cheesemaking, and the legendary underground cellars where they age cheeses to ripe perfection:
Deep in the heart of the dairy country of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom is a dairy farm like no other. A glimpse of the main barn, painted deep-space blue with cows in astronaut attire and a moon made of cheese, provides the first hint that you’ve landed somewhere unique. Brothers Andy and Mateo, along with their wives, Victoria and Angie, knew they needed to do something different when they purchased this derelict dairy farm in 1998 — the same year that one-third of the neighboring dairy farms in the community sold their cows under intense financial pressures. Small-scale farms like this were becoming more difficult to keep up and running – a 50-cow farm like theirs would have to compete with average herd sizes of about 900 cows out west, as all of that milk is priced by the same commodity market. But the brothers were eager to find meaningful work in the place that they loved and wanted to demonstrate the ability to make a good living milking 45 grass-fed Ayrshire cows on a rocky hillside in Vermont.
Brothers Andy & Mateo Kehler. Image by Colin Clark.
Over the next 5 years, they worked hard to patch up the barn, build up their herd, improve their pastures, construct a creamery, and carve out a cave that would provide the ideal conditions for aging European-style natural rind cheeses. By 2003, they were ready to sell their very first cheeses and quickly amassed a strong following in the burgeoning American artisan cheese market. An interesting call from neighboring Cabot Creamery would change the course of their plans and set them down a path that involved creating opportunities for other local cheesemakers to get their product to peak potential. Like most cheesemakers, Cabot lacked a space dedicated to cultivating natural rinds. In fact, their warehouses were focused on keeping surface mold away from cheese. The Kehlers were nearby, hungry to grow their business, and most importantly, had a temperature and humidity-controlled space designed to grow natural rinds. The result was Cabot Clothbound Cheddar and the awards and accolades soon followed, as one of the first batches took home Best of Show at the 2006 American Cheese Society Conference. Andy & Mateo recognized the potential in these kinds of collaborations and drew up plans for an expanded aging facility beneath one of the pastures of Jasper Hill Farm.
The Cellars at Jasper Hill
Two years later, they formally opened the Cellars at Jasper Hill — a 22,000-square-foot aging facility featuring seven vaults specifically calibrated for various cheese types. This allowed them to partner with a network of other local cheesemakers and reduce the barriers to entry for those interested in value-added production. According to their website, “ripening work for natural-rind cheeses takes up more than 70% of the labor for a batch of cheese, over its lifetime. By pooling these efforts, farmstead producers could spend more time focusing on the true drivers of cheese quality: milk production and cheesemaking. Instead of sending hundreds of small boxes through the post, refrigerated trucks now pick up pallets of cheese destined for regional and national distributors. The Cellars is now the final stop for cheeses coming from six different creameries. Its mission is to be the standard-bearer for quality and innovation in the artisan cheese industry.”
The award-winning Harbison. Image by Bob Montgomery
Andy & Mateo have a knack for distilling the local landscape into their cheeses. They took this approach to new heights in 2013 when they opened a state-of-the-art laboratory on their farm, complete with a staff of food microbiology experts. The idea for this new endeavor was sparked by their partnership with Harvard scientist Dr. Rachel Dutton in 2010, who was using cheese as a model to research how small microbial communities interact. One of the profound discoveries of Dr. Dutton’s work was the notion that the environment (cows, cheese caves, pastures) and methods (washing, salting, managing acidity) were as important to the development of cheese rinds, if not more so, than the ingredients. Microbes, including yeast and bacteria, are critical partners in the cheesemaking process, turning milk into solids, and those solids into cheeses with distinctive aromas, flavors, and textures. American cheesemakers have very limited options when sourcing the cultures for their cheeses, as there are only three domestic suppliers of these critical microbes, all of which are multinational chemical corporations, including DuPont and Cargill. This significantly limits the number of available cultures and stifles the individualism that artisanal cheesemakers crave.
The happy grass-fed cows of Jasper Hill Farm. Image by Blake Noyes.
With strong science to support Dr. Dutton’s findings, a new lab, and a team of microbiologists lending their expertise, Jasper Hill Farm has been able to experiment with creating their own microbial cultures, which are sourced directly from the milk produced by the cows on their farm. They have also found that their raw milk cheeses, like Winnimere, contain all of the microbes needed to produce a fantastic cheese, thus avoiding the need to add microbial cultures. While this all may sound very high-tech for something as rudimentary farmstead cheese, Andy and Mateo are quick to point out that a cheese will never be better than the milk that it’s made from, you can’t make good milk without healthy animals, and you can’t have healthy animals without a healthy landscape filled with nutrient-dense forage. The microbial ecology of raw milk is the sum of these practices on a farm.
The proof of success lies in the supreme quality of the cheeses coming out of the Cellars at Jasper Hill. Their cheeses have garnered a long list of awards including ‘Best American Cheese’ at the World Cheese Awards and ‘Best in Show’ at the American Cheese Society for Harbison; an American Cheese Society ‘Best in Class’ for Bayley Hazen Blue, and two Top 20 nods at the 2020 World Championship Cheese Contest for Highlander and Lait Bloomer. Bayley Hazen Blue was even featured in a White House dinner when the Obamas held a State Dinner in honor of the French President. If you’re worried it might all be going to their heads, a quick trip to their YouTube channel will reassure you that they’re not taking themselves too seriously. The documentation of a recent escape attempt by a wheel of Cabot Clothbound will also be sure to leave a smile on your face, the music video parodies are a must-see, and you won’t want to miss this clip of their Bayley Hazen Blue being shot into Earth’s outer atmosphere with the help of a weather balloon, an HD camera, and GPS tracking software. The cheese was successfully lofted 100,000 feet up and then retrieved where it parachuted down a couple of towns to the west of the Greensboro, VT launch site. Talk about stellar cheese!!
The Bayley Hazen Blue Moon launch. Image by Ryan Nolan.
